For enthusiasts with patience and a sense of model making: this mill is not identical to the mill "De Lelie", the base here is an octagonal shape while our mill has a round stone structure up to the hood. The frame and hood are similar.

Construction description of a mill for the garden

Originally written by G. Sepers

Published in Hobby Bulletin, May 16th volume - 1964

Original title: Construction description octagonal flour mill with rack "model GAS"

The separate attachment drawing is drawn in scale 1:120, so that after building a beautiful garden model is obtained, with rods of 1.50 m in length. If you want to make a larger model, you take as many times as much as the drawing indicates, but then you have to make cross beams and braces for reinforcement between the octagonal posts no. 2. The catch must also not be made of wire, but of wooden pieces around the catch wheel no. 32 and connected with a wide iron band over the wooden catches.

Hull

To make the garden model, we first start by making the octagonal uprights from parana pine or another good wood. The cross-section drawing shows how these are made; the outsides in the sloping part of the octagon, so that the bottom and top walls can be made flush against it. On top of the octagonal uprights, beams no. 3 are placed, 12 mm thick and as wide as the uprights. Later the cross ring no. 5 will be added, which is made in 2 parts from beech or elm wood. The thickness also consists of two parts; the upper part is connected to the lattice wood (16) and has a saw cut (see detail).

The lower part is connected to the upper beams (3). An iron band goes around this, the top of which is bent by 5 to 6 mm and fits into the saw cut of the upper part; However, this must be able to turn easily so that the blades can be set to the wind later.

This strap is only screwed to the bottom part. The bottom of the octagonal uprights (2) are on the bottom beam (4). Connect these securely.

If you are going to connect these lower and upper beams, the lower ones must be the same length to form a true octagon, as well as the upper beams, but they will be shorter.

Planed and plowed wood of 15 to 16 mm thickness with clamps at the bottom to hold the parts together is used as the base (1). The outside is covered with a slat the width of both parts.

Doors and windows

The size of this is measured on the drawing. Where windows or doors will be located, a cross plank of approximately 7 to 8 mm thickness is made between the octagonal posts with the opening of the doors or windows (see 39). These cross planks must be perpendicular at the back, so they will be thicker at the bottom than at the top. Two rebate slats are made at the back into which the window is inserted. The skin (40 or 41) is nailed 5 mm from the sawn out hole, so that this 5 mm wide strip represents the so-called frame. Window wood or rods are painted on the back of the window. To make this easy, make cardboard cards that fit into the rebate slats. The window hole is marked on the outside, after which the window wood can be marked, for which purpose the window is placed on the card and the window of the card is painted over. The weather does not have as much of an effect on the inside as when it is painted on the outside. For the roof boxes, a heavier plank is made between the posts as for the downstairs windows, for example 15 mm thick. These are the same thickness at the top and bottom, but the window will also be perpendicular. In this plank of 15 mm thickness, a hole is made as large as the outside dimensions of the roof box. In this hole, planks of 6 mm thickness are made all around, which are so wide that they extend 3 mm beyond the skin. First the bottom and top, then the sides in between. These sides are narrower at the top and remain approximately 8 mm within the plank that is made between the posts. This is how a rabbet has been obtained. The window is secured to it with putty. See roof box detail.

We do not use plywood for the doors, unless it must be well painted all around, otherwise the plywood will peel. The skin up to the widening of the hull is made of good spruce or pine wood, with the rebate at the bottom and the bevel at the top, so this bevel falls into the rebate and water entry is impossible. The bottom planks from base (1) to above the counter are made at an angle to each other, if possible glued with waterproof glue. This part therefore remains flat all around (see drawing).

Link to the construction drawing

Shelving or counter

The counter girders (7) are made of hard wood and glued into the hull with the rounded end. Behind the skin, where the counter girders will be located, a slat of 15 The beams are kept a little longer than the size indicates, so that they can be finished precisely later. Once the beams have been fitted into the hull, we will make braces for the counter (23) and connect them to the beams. We also attach the post fence post (8) to the beams using wire nails and glue.

In larger models, these posts are assembled with a mortise and tenon, while a small brace is also applied to the post and counter girders. Now we draw a line on the skin at the bottom of the counter brace (23), so that all braces are attached at the same height with glue and screw or wire nail. Please note that the corner braces must be longer, while the braces extend the same distance from the end of the counter beams.

Now we are going to adjust the counter beams to the size of the octagon, so that each space in between is the same size. We do this by attaching thin slats to the beams. We will then make the so-called counter planks on it. We divide the space between the fence post and the body into equal pieces, leaving space between the planks. Thickness 6 mm, width approx. 30 mm.

Superstructure and roof

We are going to make the bottom one of the two circles (5), consisting of semicircles, on the hull, so that the outside is equal to the flat sides, while the corners protrude slightly. The top one with the groove is later attached to the roof parts, such as lattice wood (16), short shoot and long shoot (14 and 13), if necessary with a filling, so that the ring remains flat.

The ring is later sawn through, so that you have two equal parts and the seam of both halves of reed is placed on top of each other. To prevent the hood from blowing off and to keep it in place, we make a thin band with a folded edge, which we screw to the bottom ring.

Now the first step is to make the joint timbers (9) and the long and short joints (13 and 14), plus the wind bolster (11). We connect these together according to the drawing. We also make the pin beam (12) on and between the joint timbers, where the rear bearing will rest. To prevent the axle from sliding backwards, you can make a beam in the extension of the axle with an iron plate at the end near the axle against the short spout, so that the axle turns against this plate.

Then the tension ring (6) is made, which runs from the wind bolster (11) to the short joint against the joint timbers and which is first made exactly to one thickness and then sawn in half. The lower half is attached to the lattice timbers and against wind pin joint timbers.

The short and long sprouts just go over this half tension ring. The upper tension ring is temporarily connected to the lower one by means of a few nails, so that it can be removed again if this is necessary during further construction. Part of it is sawn out for the sprouts.

Front hood

We made 4 holes for the posts in the wind bolster (11) before attaching it. The middle and side posts are equipped with a pin. Only cut out the front; These must fit exactly in the holes, but it should not be too heavy, as we want to easily remove the hood later. The bar goes over the top of the posts. Then first the top shelf, which must partially have the shape so that it can be finished precisely later. This plank is attached to the corner rafters. The corner rafters are again attached to the ridge and to the beam of the posts. The ridge is made 10 x 30 mm. The axle bearing will later be placed between the two center posts.

Now to close it; the sides are nailed to the top beam and corner rafters up to half the thickness of the center posts (not in the windlass), the center becomes transverse wood and both sides are half on the posts. One plank is taken and it is later sawn through at the center of the axle. The upper part can then be attached, while the lower part is screwed to the posts in case the hood needs to be removed for repairs.

The back will be approximately the same as the front, but lower, while there will be a window in the middle. The planks run slightly on the wind bolster. At the back, the planks are level with the outside of the short sprout between the posts. We place a standing piece over the posts, which extends over the plank on both sides of the posts and that is rounded against the short sprout at the bottom. made, while keeping the sides of the outside the same.

The same applies to the two corner rafters to the ridge, over which a plank is placed, keeping the outside of the corner rafters the same.

To close the hood, round pieces of pine wood are sawn without brushes, the round ones of the hood construction and 25 mm wide and 12 to 13 mm thick. These pieces are attached to the ridge on the top tension ring with waterproof glue and nails (remove the nails in time). We start at the long shoot and work further forward or backward, each time fitting neatly against the pieces, while using glue to connect them and also to secure them against the ridge and on the clamping plate with thin nail nails (not the nail bottom with this work!). Sometimes adjust the thickness at the front and back, so that it remains as perpendicular as possible. Once this is done, we let the top dry, after which we grate the whole thing well and sand it evenly, filling the irregularities or seams with putty. Later, if the hood is smooth, cover it with thick primer and otherwise fill it with filler. The final finish follows by applying a reed-colored paint to the hood.

Tail and braces

The tail (20), long braces (18) and short braces (19) are made from fine-grained wood, such as beech wood. The ends of (18 and 19) are finished round, as are the ends of joint timbers and lattice timbers. The tail beam (20) is connected to the short strut (14) by means of a screw, as well as to the long struts (18) and the long strut (13). We attach the short struts (19) to the short strut (14), both at the ends with a bk wood screw. The long and short shoots are finished at an angle to a depth of 2 mm outside the hood, for a quarter of the width. A flat piece of 2 to 3 mm thickness is made on the braces, which extends 2 mm all around. Below a hole of approximately 8 mm is drilled at the tail for the cross reel shaft.

The crossbench (22) is also made of two beams fore and aft against the lower end of the tail beam; over this a 3 mm plank with shallow saw cuts, so that it resembles narrow planks. A hole is also drilled on the side of the tail beam, through which the belay chain is placed, which is tightly secured to the cleat at the back of the tail. Both chains (e.g. old bell chains) are equipped with a hook at the ends, which goes through the slots in the counter planks and hooks behind the counter beam. The cross chain is attached at the other end to the head of the cross reel, at the back above the axle. The chain should not be too coarse, as it will not want to wind around the axle. Then another short chain with the eye from the crossbench to the spoke of the wheel. When both chains are tight, the wheel can no longer run back.

Two long spokes go halfway into the head of the reel, so we first make a cross hole in the head of the reel the thickness of the spokes. We make one of the holes half the thickness of a spoke wider towards the back, then we first put one spoke through with the notch towards the back, then the other with the notch forward and when they lie over each other, we press them in , after which we fill the hole with a suitable piece; then finish 5 to 6 mm outside the head. After this, lower the intermediate spokes a little into the head, after which we attach two thin iron rings to them with a small nail.

Rods or blades

We make the rods from parana-pain, 25 x 25 mm in the middle, the ends 16 mm wide and 12 mm thick. The inner rod is 25 mm hollow, i.e. 12 cm from the center, the front of the rod is moved 25 mm forward and finished at both ends, so that they rotate equally far out from the hull.

The finishing of the rod must be done at the back and on the side of the wind boards, i.e. on the right side. We are going to finish both of these rods at an angle, starting at the top fence slat. Just above it we insert a hollow, sloping surface, so that the rod runs diagonally where the fence slat (19) is. We insert it approx. 5 mm diagonally up to the stern slat (7) and from 7 to the stern slat (1), so gradually less towards the bottom, until the rod remains that way at the end. To finish neatly, draw a pencil line from (19) to (7) and from (7) to (1), slightly concave.

This is what you do with all four ends at the front. We also make the back diagonally, 5 mm deep, but then draw the line from (19) to (1). Then follows the marking and distribution of the points where the fence slats should be placed. To drill the holes, take a 4 mm iron drill and drill these holes from the side of the wind boards (so on the right) 6 mm from the center to the top or front in the slope of the bars at the front.

Round pieces are inserted and filed onto the fence slats so that they fit exactly. We finish them slightly on both sides so that it cannot be seen later that the fence slats in the bars are round. The warp beams (28), which we make from beech wood, are also attached in this way. We place the lower and upper ones first, after which we angle the others so that the outside of the board is straight. We finally attach them with very small nails. The fence slats are made of straight-grained spruce or pine wood; first saw off a few pieces of wood, then split to approximately the right thickness, then planing to size. 4x6 mm on the rod side and 2x3 mm on the outer end. Work strictly to size, otherwise the blades will not be equally heavy. We make the wind signs (27) from the same wood, 2 to 3 mm thick, and we make them diagonally against the rod so that it closes. The long edge slats (29) are made of spruce or pine wood 2½ x 6 mm, which are secured and folded with very thin nails. We drill a 10 mm hole in the middle of the rods for the blade shaft. This axle (15) is a turned steel axle of 18 mm Ø. The front part is turned to 10 mm over a length of 80 mm, while the front has a 2 cm thread with a hexagon nut and washer.

The rear end is 30 mm long and turned to a thickness of 8 mm with a convex end. At the place where the catch wheel will be located, we file the axle flat over a length of 50 to 60 mm. A ball bearing for an axle thickness of 18 mm is placed between the front posts of the wind pin, which is mounted in an iron housing, flush on one side with the side of the housing, while the housing is 3 to 4 mm thicker than the bearing. We drill a 20 mm hole in this 3 to 4 mm thick flange so that the axle can pass through. Two holes are drilled at the bottom, into which threads are tapped for column bolts with a round head of 6 mm thickness. The screws are screwed from the bottom of the wind support into the housing. Pay close attention to the length. The same applies to the rear end, but now for an 8 mm ball bearing. The shaft must be inclined at 12° and the bearings must be set clean so that the shaft can rotate easily.

Now leave 30 x 80 mm open. For the catch wheel we make a round disk with a V groove for the catch wire, and two 1 mm thick square iron plates with an 18 mm hole and 50 mm square, in which we drill a hole for a screw on each corner and also a file keyway. We also make a key that secures the wheel on the flat side of the axle. On the protruding axle we make a square beech bobbin of 50 keep a rod. When the rods are installed, an open space is created in front of the inner rod. We make two blocks, which we place in this space and attach to the outside rod. Then an iron plate with a 10 mm hole and a folded edge of 10 mm to hold the four lugs together. We sawed off a section for the outer rod, then applied a washer and tightened a nut.

The braking or catch

The catch for this reel is somewhat primitive, but it is very usable. A vertical beam is connected to one of the joints, the so-called easel. with a long hole at the bottom for the pin of the catch bar (36). We determine the length when the vertical beam is secured, because it must remain within the pivot point so that it cannot rub against the inside of the hull; this also applies to the end of the catch beam. To keep this end in place, two guides are made on both sides, which are connected to each other and to the joint wood at the top and bottom and which are connected with a brace to the outer guide, which also runs to the joint wood. confirmed.

Right at the end we make a hole for the inner catch rope, which runs from the catch bar (36) to the catch stick (24). The catch beam is inserted into the easel by means of a pin and secured with the pin as a pivot point.

Approximately 1/6 of the length of the catch beam, counting from the mule, a hole is drilled for the string that is placed around the catch wheel; this runs from the catch beam over the catch wheel and is connected to the joint wood on the other side of the hood.

A catch hook is also needed. This is a flat iron with a curved bottom end and a slot to release the catch, so that the reel can turn when the catch beam rises and catches in this hook. It also hangs on the joint wood, if necessary with a filler to get it right next to the catch beam at the back, i.e. on the side of the hull. A pin has been made in the catch beam, which ends up in the slot along the curved side of the hook when retrieved. The catch bar must be slightly tilted upwards when the wire is secured around the catch wheel and tensioned tightly. If the catch bar rises more to rest in the hook, the wire is loose and the reel can turn. You can make a long bracket over the catch hook just above the pin, but long enough that the hook does not hinder when swinging. This bracket serves to prevent the catch hook from getting too far from the catch beam.

The long catch pole (24) has its pivot point at the back of the outside of the hood. To connect the inner rope to size, the catch bar must be as low as possible, i.e. on the brake or catch. The catch pole must be 10° upwards with the end to which the outer catch rope is connected. When the catch bar comes to rest in the hook, the catch stick is slightly downwards and that is the nicest position. The lower end of the outer catch rope is secured to the tail bar, but always hangs loose.

If you want to make the model even larger, the hull frame must be reinforced with cross beams and cross braces and the stern slats must then be inserted into square holes. We also have to work more with pins and holes to attach various parts more firmly.

The mill needs to be further painted as the diagram indicates. The heads of shoots and braces at the joints turn white; we also create a white border on the outside of the wind board. We only whiten the ends of the heads of the slatted wood. We paint the axle head green, spokes white, the frame above and around the hull cream.